Your Overall Shape and Illusion

CLOTHING SIZING IS IRRELEVANT

The very first and most important to understand is that size does not mean a thing, it does not matter. No matter what size we think we are - there will be many permutations of shape within that size and many items we buy in our supposed "size" won't fit or will look terrible on us. There's three reasons for this.

One - only certain styles of clothing suit our individual shape.

Two - since clothing sizing was first "standardised" after World War II, women's shapes have changed, so the bust waist and hip measurements which constitute a size bracket (eg: 14) are no longer representative of the majority of women in that range.

Three - There is no real "policing" of manufacturer's adherence to the sizing guidelines. Some sneaky manufacturers will tag a standard size 14 with a smaller size, so you'll feel good about fitting into it. Yet when you try another manufacturer's size 12 outfit it doesn't fit at all, so you get depressed. In the US this has been taken to the extreme, with many of the national designer brands dropping up to 6 sizes - so what used to be classified a size 12 is now a size 6. How confusing is that! This is known in the industry as "Vanity Sizing".

IGNORE SIZES - DRESS FOR YOUR SHAPE

The key to looking stylish is to find the overall styles which suit your shape and create the illusion you want to create. Forget about sizes. It doesn't matter.

You need to choose clothes which flatter your best bits and camouflage your worst bits. With the careful use of fabrics, colors and styles you can also create illusions. You can make yourself look taller or shorter or wider or thinner. Well known US Image Consultant Leah Feldon calls it Camouflage Chic. She says it's all about choosing the right clothes - clothes that camouflage any real or imagined figure flaws rather than highlighting them - doing it with style.

Apart from super skinny women, no-one wants to look heavier than they really are. And apart from super tall women, no-one wants to look shorter. So the objective of Camouflage Chic is to make us look taller, thinner and balanced.

You'll experience a real feeling of empowerment when you know what's right for you and wearing clothes that perfectly suit your body. You feel better about yoursef. If you have one pair of pants which fit and look fantastic, and another which are a little tight around the tummy and give you a paunch, you'll wear longer tops to disguise this and still look okay. But you will know, and won't feel as self assured as you do when you have the other pants on.

How you feel in your clothes is as important as how you look in them. When you feel confident, you look confident.

CLASSIFY YOUR SHAPE AND LOVE IT

Now it's time to get the tape measure out and determine once and for all what shape you are. Here's where to measure.

* Chest, measure across the fullest part of your bust
* Waist, measure at the smallest part of your tummy
* Hips, measure at the widest part of your hips and buttocks.

Now read on and find your shape.

Rectangle shape

If your waist measurement is at least 75% of your chest or hips circumferences (which are virtually the same) you have a rectangular or boyish shape. Madonna, Victoria Beckham and Hilary Swank are all good examples. This shape needs to wear outfits which create curves.

Pear Shape

If your waist is at least 75% of your chest measurement, and your hips are at least 110% of your bust, you're probably pear shaped. You have a shape like Jennifer Lopez, Angelina Jolie and Gwyneth Paltrow.

Diamond Shape

If you tend to have slim hips, but with perhaps a big belly and a flat bum, then you are diamond shaped. When diamonds gain weight, they have a tendency to gain it around the waist.

Inverted Triangle

If your bust is bigger than your hips by at least 110% and your waist is at most 75% of your bust, then you have the broad shouldered shape of Mimi Rogers, Susan Sarandon and Ellen Barkin.

Hourglass shape

If you have a waist which is less than 75% of your bust or or hips measurements (which are virtually the same) you are a true hourglass along with Sophia Loren, Anita Ekberg, Lynda Carter,and Nigella Lawson.

CREATING YOUR BASE

The first major tip is to ensure you have a base wardrobe of pieces which suit you and you feel good in. You'll need some casual pieces for hanging around in like trousers, jackets, jeans and shorts. If you work in an office you'll definitely need some smart suits and dresses. And for those special occasions you'll need one or two classic suits, skirts or dresses you can dress up. Each of these you can wear over and over again.

Choosing these base items in a neutral color which suits your coloring will give you more options for changing the look. So go for black, gray, taupe, cream, burgundy, deep green or navy, or shades which suit your coloring. Monochromatic (single) color schemes also help with creating the illusion of being taller and thinner.

In the long term, chic and style has to do with cut and quality of the pieces you choose, not their trendiness. Trendy items are good to have, but they should be used sparingly, so they complement a wardrobe of your favourite classics without overwhelming them.

COST PER WEAR CONCEPT

Classic clothing is classic because it can be worn for years without looking dated. That makes it great value - if you get pieces that are built to last. To do so, you'll have to spend a little extra to buy the highest quality you can afford. While this can be justified in the abstract, it's harder to stomach when looking at a price tag. So remember that with well made classics, unlike trendy items, the cost per wear is much lower - the more you wear something, the less expensive it becomes. So if a pair of classically tailored black pants cost the same as a pink ruffled blouse, the pants are better value; you'll get so much more use out of them and for a longer time.